Fashion

Shaking Up London’s Bespoke Solutions: Jack Stammers And Will Davison Talk The Art Of Tailored Suits And Why They Launched Jack Davison Bespoke

Set in the heart of London’s St. Paul’s, in Ludgate Hill to be exact is Jack Davison Bespoke. While the British and Italians have been masters of bespoke suit making for well over a century, Jack Stammers and Will Davison saw an area within the craft that they could improve upon. Simply put for them, London lacked the appropriate sartorial solutions outside of Mayfair.

The duo has built a well-established men’s bespoke business in central London that has spread to the US, Europe, South America and the Middle East catching the attention of clientele from English football players and broadcasters, Rio Ferdinand and Gary Lineker; and, model Oliver Cheshire. Sitting down with them in their atelier the two sharply dressed duo don’t let British hospitality go unnoticed, offering a cup of tea I opt for sparkling water. For the next half an hour we discuss how British men have known the secret to dressing in a tailored suit, what drove them to start Jack Davison Bespoke, and their upcoming trunk shows to the US.

From Mayfair to Ludgate Hill

“There’s a huge number of tailors on offer in London, but finding your way to a reputable one can be a minefield,” they share. “If budget is of no concern then there are many notable establishments that offer name and heritage, and we will always appreciate and enjoy seeing what they produce.”

Working in a Mayfair tailor they grew to know the business and what they were getting into. It was a kind of no brainer as they saw a niche in bespoke suits that they could fill. “Before embarking on setting up Jack Davison Bespoke, we considered the question of where, if given total freedom, in the world would we go to have a suit made, and the honest answer was we couldn’t give a simple, definitive answer; we loved multiple aspects, cuts and techniques from many tailors across different eras and countries, and so we thought why not create a house cut of suit we would be proud to call our own and love wearing ourselves,” Davison notes.

Conceiving Jack Davison Bespoke in 2017 out of a love of fabric, “you can’t beat the feeling of wearing a well-cut suit,” continues Davison, “and the satisfaction of being able to realize a creative design in order to make other people look and feel good too, as a brand we built ourselves, is amazing.” While they both have hobbies outside of their brand, they knew taking their Thom Sweeney knowledge, where they trained, to create a brand of their own is where they wanted to devote their time and energy into.

Their Ludgate Hill location is surrounded by office workers who dress in suits so they are bringing suit flair to a part of the city that needs their skills. “It’s important to note that the “City of London” (also known as the Square mile) is the business district at the center of London where the suit as work attire is still almost de rigueur, but this area of London is actually some distance away from Mayfair, the traditionally thought of epicenter of tailoring, so part of our mission was to bring that legacy to the city,” says Stammers.

The uniqueness of Jack Davison Bespoke

Bespoke suit-making isn’t new. It goes back to the 12th century in Europe, but what has allowed the craft to survive is brands being able to innovate yet keeping the tradition alive. Stammers and Davison wanted to create a brand steeped in British and Italian heritage with the techniques of Savile Row and Naples suit making. “Given that London is globally renowned for its iconic street dedicated to the designing, manufacturing and retailing of suits, there’s always a new wave of talent coming through wanting to build on the legacy of both the previous generation and all the master tailors before them,” says Davison.

“We offer a different approach to tailoring,” says Davison. “The traditionally perceived notion of English tailoring is still very old school. It’s visually very military inspired, with large heavily padded shoulders, using weighty fabrics and stiff internal canvas. Often with a wider leg and styled in the way your father might wear – still a very beautiful suit, but not necessarily one that the younger gents now want to wear.”

“We apply all the knowledge and craftsmanship passed down for centuries to create a cut of suit we love, one that’s much more in keeping with the physique, needs and style of the modern man,” notes Stammers. “It has a softer shoulder line with much less padding, a slimmer sleeve and a nice snap on the waist – cut to always flatter the wearer’s shape but without being too tight. Made in newer, more luxurious cloths in an array of tones, and offered in a much more relaxed manner over a whisky or a beer with great music playing.”

 Clients come by word of mouth, and “nearly all of them are returning customers or referrals, and many become friends. We’ve even been invited to a wedding or two – making the job and trade all the more rewarding and fun,” they share.

The appeal of a bespoke suit

British and European men have understood the art of a well-tailored suit, while American men are slowly catching on. It’s definitely something American women notice when walking through London’s rush hour, seeing men in fitted suits. “By all accounts the British are credited for inventing the suit, so I guess we have more experience,” muses Davison. “It’s fair to say that British men view a suit in many ways and appreciate it more fully as a tool for dressing well,” he continues.

One aspect of a man’s strength lies in his masculinity, as a woman’s strength lies in her femininity. A bespoke suit on a man highlights his broad shoulders and his male silhouette, exuding his confidence. “When at work the suit is a man’s uniform and their power suit,” says Stammers. “It’s a default outfit choice that even the most unstylish man can perfect at work – if in doubt, a navy tailored suit worn with a crisp white shirt, a navy silk grenadine tie and a pair of oxford shoes works every time! And once you enter the realms of bespoke there’s a level of perceived status.”

“We find that the English gent is happy to change the outlook of their suit slightly too; making it more versatile and useful. For example, just changing the fabric for a warmer more textured cloth and adding a much softer, Italian influenced shoulder can totally change the look from a corporate feel to more relaxed approach to tailoring, making it more suitable for an evening out, a wedding or simply a less formal suit for work.”

Even a bespoke suit on a woman is a power statement piece. Jack Davison Bespoke also makes suits for women. While they don’t do many suits for women, they do do them. “We find our clients appreciate the fact a tailored suit, especially a bespoke one, can really compliment a good physique”

As for American men slowly catching on to tailored suits, Davison comments, “it’s hard to really say why American men might not know the full importance or relevance of all of this, but hopefully they are starting to come around to the idea of tailoring and embrace the further possibilities of a suit.”

The American market is of importance to the brand and that why the duo is often back and forth between the US and London, especially now that travel restrictions are easing. “We will be visiting the US doing trunk shows and it’s best to contact us ([email protected]) for our schedule,” says Davison. “For those of you not in the US of course, we if we must jump onto your private jet to visit you on your tropical island then consider it done!” They also have clients in Denmark, Switzerland, Mexico, Monaco, France, Qatar, and the UAE. 

Jack Davison Ready-To-Wear

Their inspirations are Steve McQueen and Paul Newman, who Stammers states, “made dressing casual and dressing up effortlessly stylish. “We find ourselves not only building our clients a smart wardrobe but also bridging the gap between smart and casual.”

And while Jack Davison Bespoke has always been solely bespoke or made-to-measure, the pandemic changed all that. “During lockdown we produced a small Ready-to-wear collection for e-commerce while unable to see clients face-to-face. It’s a collection of things we like to wear and is curated so that most pieces work together. Clients can buy as much or as little as they like knowing that it all works together. Offering an almost capsule wardrobe, one that is reassuringly easy to choose from,” notes Stammers.

Location: 35-37 Ludgate Hill, London EC4M 7JN | +44-203875-3698 | [email protected]




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